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Simon begins with a visit to the bustling, reinvented Central Market, where stalls sell everything from souvenirs to cuisine. Then on to the nearby 20th-century gem that is PMQ (Police Married Quarters), once home to the local constabulary and their spouses, and now teeming with young creatives, their workshops, galleries and boutiques.
In true Calder fashion, Simon gets to grips with the archaeology and colonial history of the area, before rounding off his trip at contemporary arts space The Jockey Club, and dinner at The Magistracy.