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With a delicious glance at the fairytale gothic spired turrets above us, we stepped into the dark, hushed warmth of a building that both looked – and smelled – like spells. And that, in fact, was exactly what it was: for the Harry Potter-esque 1898 Porter’s House hotel in Ghent has such exquisite attention to detail that it has even curated its own magic-inspired scent diffuser, “Freyr” – an abundance spell, comprising patchouli, amber, vetiver and myrrh.
What it smelled like to me, however, was a love potion. For this boutique, otherworldly experience didn’t feel like it was for first-year wizards-in-training, heaving bags of luggage (and brooms) onto platform 9 and 3/4. And while families are welcome (there is a Porter’s family suite, complete with terrace, sauna and plunge bath), I personally wouldn’t bring my kids along – because this hotel is sexy. The vibes are cozy, luscious honeymoon, perfect for couples who appreciate something darker and more sensuous; the perfect complement to a winter wedding (or, dare I say, Halloween...?).
It’s impossible not to feel mysterious (and, I’ll admit, turned on) when surrounded by dark wood and earthy, deep-red hues. Even the hallway doors are, the hotel manager Damien Brunin told me, painted “midnight black”; the housekeeping trolleys specially commissioned to blend in with the rich, heavy curtains, plush carpets, wooden beams and exposed wrought iron structures in the ceiling, which are the same as those on the Eiffel Tower.
Over in the main building that makes up the neighbouring 38-room heritage hotel 1898 The Post, there are secret doors where you must twist a button to open them; an “honesty bar” complete with hidden library, vintage radio and view of the river outside; and a cocktail bar called 1898 The Cobbler (which beats the Leaky Cauldron, hands down).
There’s also an illusory double stairwell that gives you the impression of walking downstairs (yet you find yourself back on the second floor), a relic of the main building’s past persona as a post office, and an enormous spiral staircase. “We have already ordered 200 floating candles for this staircase for Halloween,” Brunin casually tells me. Hogwarts Great Hall, eat your heart out...
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No, much as my kids might have wanted to join me – and are perfectly catered for in the luxury family suites – I’m afraid that my visit to the latest extension to bougie, boutique hotel brand 1898 (the four-roomed, newly-refurbished, heritage townhouse luxury of 1898 Porter’s House, which opened on 1 September) on this occasion is strictly adult-only.
How else to truly and ostentatiously (it’s pricey, so pretty much perfect for a special and romantic anniversary weekend treat) enjoy the huge wet room with twin rainforest waterfall showers, and the copper ice plunge bath on a private terrace, where you can shimmy out of your hotel robe and into the water without fear of being overlooked (I did exactly that) armed with a glass or three of Champagne?
Kids are welcome, yet 1898 Porter’s House feels like it’s for grown-ups. Specifically: grown-ups who, like me, have an affinity for Morticia Addams, Dracula and Bellatrix Lestrange; fans of Harry Potter, certainly – who have all grown up. It’s much more “Cursed Child” than “Philosopher’s Stone”, even if the staff (kind, sweet, polite) are on the young side.
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What makes Porter’s House so special are the trimmings. Luxury Parisien beauty and cosmetics house Guerlain is known for being discerning – but never more so than with the brands it chooses to partner with. Guerlain usually won’t collaborate with more than one hotel per city, Brunin tells me – and it wasn’t a surprise to hear that 1898 Porter’s House was its choice for Ghent, its bottles strewn carefully throughout the pure marble bathroom suites.
From the hidden tech in the rooms (the only snag we noticed was how difficult it was to find the right light switch), to the fairylights on the terrace; the home-made negronis and manhattans in potion bottles on the antique writing desk; the carefully chosen coffee table books (one on flowers, one on the Queen) that are changed and rotated every month – and the incredible, 80-item “choose your own” breakfast in the comfort of the Cobbler lounge at “The Kitchen” – my real wonder was why I hadn’t been to Ghent before now.
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After all, it is barely four hours door-to-door from St Pancras via Eurostar, making it the perfect (and perfectly romantic) sustainable travel option. And with some CityCards from Visit Ghent giving us access to a guided boat tour where we saw Ghent the way it must have looked in the 11th century – when it was the second major medieval port after Paris – not to mention some achingly beautiful willow trees (where, legend has it, if you kiss your loved one you’ll be together for a lifetime); plus entry to see the restored Ghent Altarpiece Painting by Hubert van Eyck and Jan van Eyck ... well – what more could you really wish for?
If it’s high-end Michelin-starred food, then cracking a wand and yelling “Accio” in the direction of Lys D’Or would definitely do the trick, but for me, the really memorable evening came courtesy of “grapes and plates” natural wine bar Chubby Cheeks. It was one of the best meals of not just my weekend, but possibly my life. A “taste explosion” was how I explained it, breathlessly, to my boyfriend.
That’s who I chose to travel with, you see – and I’d advise you do the same. The thing about 1898 Porter’s House is that you need to go with someone you love and desire, because love and desire runs through it like day and night (or Lumos and Nox).
If only I could flick my wand and conjure up a Portkey to take me back...
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