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    Sitting in a cedar-panelled sauna at 95 degrees Celsius with 25 other naked people – most of whom are complete strangers – as pulsating rock music pumps out at full volume was not something I had anticipated on my first day in Austria.

    Men and women, without a stitch on, clap and whoop as a young – and clothed – husband and wife duo prance around, whirling towels in the air.

    Each time one swoops in front of me, a blast of hot air is fanned into my face.

    The only thing to make this whole experience even more surreal is the friendly Austrian woman sitting nearby who strikes up a chat before the sauna starts. She asks where in the UK we are from. London, comes the reply.

    “Ah. London. My cousin lives near there…” She pauses as she tries to remember the place. “Leighton Buzzard!” she adds triumphantly.

    This is my first experience of Aufguss, where performance art meets sauna room meets wellness retreat. It is a massively growing phenomenon – and requires real skill.

    Janine and Andi showing off the skill of Aufguss

    Janine and Andi showing off the skill of Aufguss (Caroline Gammell/The Independent)

    Aufguss literally translates as “infusion” and the sauna session involves large balls of ice with oils such as lemon, strawberry and mint being placed on the hot stones.

    As the steam and temperature rises, the 12-minute “show” begins with Janine and Andi flicking their towels around and around to manipulate the hot air, all in time to the pounding music. It’s like watching a matador at close quarters – and is completely mesmerising.

    The Austrian, German and Dutch guests all clap and cheer their approval. The few Brits in the crowd stick out a mile – we are the only ones still coyly wrapped in our towels.

    As the session goes on, the towels start to slip but I still can’t quite bring myself to let it all hang out, as it were.

    To the Austrians, it’s baffling how reserved the British are about taking off their clothes.

    Christina, the spa owner, explains diplomatically: “For international people it can be a bit strange but for us in Austria, it is completely normal.”

    When the Aufguss is over, I scurry into the outdoor pool filled with cold mountain spring water before jumping into a hot shower, which makes me feel marvellous. Just marvellous.

    This is all takes place in the surrounds of Hotel Lürzerhof, a luxury spa resort an hour’s drive south of Salzburg, nestled in the valley between the towns of Radstadt and Obertauern.

    The jewel in the crown is the 20-metre infinity pool perched on the roof of the building, offering unparalleled views of the mountains

    The jewel in the crown is the 20-metre infinity pool perched on the roof of the building, offering unparalleled views of the mountains (Caroline Gammell/The Independent)

    Read more: My weekend experiencing South Tyrol’s sensational sauna culture

    The Radstadt Tauern mountains soar into the air on either side of the hotel - providing a breathtaking backdrop.

    The hotel has just reopened after a 10m Euro refurbishment. They only increased the room numbers from 60 to 68, but have transformed the spa into 4,500 square metres of indulgent wellness.

    There are four outdoor pools (one just for those not wishing to wear any clothes, naturally) and two indoor.

    The jewel in the crown is the 20-metre infinity pool perched on the roof of the building, offering unparalleled views of the mountains. It really is spectacular.

    This is for adults only - you can wear what you want - but it is a peaceful, awesome spot.

    Like many hotels in Austria, Lurzerhof offers full board: a hearty breakfast, lighter lunch and full six-course dinner. Interestingly, alongside the traditional meaty Alpine menu and a more modern European option is a vegan choice, which changes every day.

    The hotel is bustling, with visitors primarily there for the spa and to relax. Each guest is provided with a floor length bathrobe with a Traitors-style hood and “feel the mountains” embroidered on the back.

    The view of the mountain from the infinity pool

    The view of the mountain from the infinity pool (Caroline Gammell/The Independent)

    During the day, clients are actively encouraged to pad around the property in sandals and dressing gowns as they take in the wellness options and array of massage treatments.

    Dinner is smart though. And more likely than not, the couple you were gaily sitting next to in the sauna in the nude an hour ago, are now at the next door table examining the wine menu.

    Aside from the pools, saunas and steam rooms, Lürzerhof, offers yoga classes and move and flow sessions – and it could be tempting to never leave.

    But I am keen to explore the mountains, by foot, by bike and by gondola. In the winter, the nearest slopes are a 15-minute drive away in Obertauern and the public bus stops right outside the hotel every half an hour. It’s not ski in-ski out, but you wouldn’t come to Lürzerhof, for that kind of holiday.

    The scenery is stunning, with 360-degree mountain top vistas, clearly marked trails and Alpine lakes to take a dip in, if you’re brave enough.

    (Caroline Gammell/The Independent)

    Read more: These are the UK's 25 best spas

    At one such lake, two paddleboards were tied up to a jetty, free to use. It would have been rude not to.

    Being in such natural surroundings, it is heartening to discover that the hotel is entirely powered by its own hydroelectric station after owner Harald Habersatter dug a 420-metre tunnel through the mountains to ensure a constant source of renewable energy. The hotel generates ten times the power it needs, feeding its surplus electricity back into the national grid.

    This engineering feat, which has enabled the hotel to be reliant on 100 per cent green electricity since 2018, is seen as something of a blueprint for the rest of the country.

    It also means you can enjoy the multiple pools and spas on offer without feeling guilty.

    By the end of four days of spas, saunas, swimming, walking and mountain air, I genuinely feel refreshed, invigorated – and extremely relaxed.

    The scenery is stunning, with 360-degree mountain top vistas, clearly marked trails and Alpine lakes to take a dip in, if you’re brave enough

    The scenery is stunning, with 360-degree mountain top vistas, clearly marked trails and Alpine lakes to take a dip in, if you’re brave enough (Caroline Gammell/The Independent)

    So much so that my journey from awkward sauna user to Aufguss enthusiast sees me join in heartily with my new naked friends.

    I am just devastated to miss the Highway to Hell-themed session held after a few hours after I leave.

    Next time, next time.

    Caroline traveled as a guest of Hotel Lürzerhof

    How to do it

    Stays at Hotel Lürzerhof start from €217 per person per night based on two sharing on a full-board basis.

    The Obertauern Tourist Office can help you book guided mountain activities.

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